Posted on Jun 24, 2023 at 1:12pm ET
PARIS — A shimmering mist of water from towering fountains lulled VIP guests at luxury Spanish fashion house Loewe’s show Saturday at Paris Fashion Week.
Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson has masterfully translated the essence of sculptor Linda Penglis’ work into a spring collection that explores themes of radiance and elongated form. It was a fitting showcase of his continuous innovation for Loewe and confirmed Anderson’s place among the Parisian design elite.
Here are some highlights from the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections, including an interview with a fashion teacher whose school was the scene of a horrific explosion earlier this week:
Anderson reinvents menswear with an artistic flair
Against the backdrop of massive, flowing water sculptures, Louie’s latest show at Paris Fashion Week was nothing short of a spectacle—and with Anderson at the helm, traditional menswear has been reimagined and reinvented.
High-waisted pants carried a touch of nostalgia, with their surreal highs drawing attention and distorting perceptions of the human form. The sparkling sparkle of fountains surrounding sequins and crystals reflects the festive energy of the disco era.
Anderson’s touch is evident in the deceptively simple jackets, coats, and knitwear—his cuts transform seemingly simple items into works of pantomime art. A suede jacket paired with a handbag made from the same leather captured the imagination of audiences, including actor Brian Cox, and drew a flurry of camera clicks.
The collection featured a simple color palette of soft pastels, blues, blacks, and khakis, which was more than offset by accessories like crystal-embellished sunglasses and a crystal hummingbird on a cut-out brocade top. An array of oversized shoes and bags add an extra dimension to Anderson’s study of fit.
The show proves that Anderson’s imaginative drive in Loewe continues to showcase his ingenuity as an innovator, with a whimsical fusion of artistry and grit.
Art and Fashion: Linda Benglis Sculptures
Loewe’s Amphitheater has also been a platform for Lynda Benglis’ work. Three modern fountains line the platform, providing an artistic pulse that reverberates throughout the show. Sculptures made of materials ranging from bronze to luster demonstrated Benglis’ skill in redefining traditional sculptural boundaries.
From the dramatic shape of “Crescendo,” sculpted like a crashing wave, to the stacked floral motifs of “Bounty, Amber Waves, Fruited Plane” and the moss-and-rock essence of “Knight Mer,” it evoked a deep feel and wave response.
The art-filled runway once again demonstrated Anderson’s penchant for blurring the boundaries of fashion.
An art teacher is happy to help you after having a blast at a fashion school in Paris
The global fashion community was shocked by the alleged gas explosion earlier this week in the 5th arrondissement of Paris that partially destroyed a building and destroyed the facade of a private art and design academy, the Paris American Academy.
Four people remain hospitalized in critical condition after Wednesday’s blast, and 54 others have suffered at least minor injuries or psychological trauma. One person, a teacher, is still missing.
At the scene, 42-year-old Anna Barr, the academy’s business teacher, was in tears on Saturday.
“It’s especially touching because it’s a small school, a family. I’ve known the director for 25 years. I even studied there,” she told The Associated Press. “Students have traveled from all over the world, including the United States and Korea, to attend these fashion design courses.”
Barr said the academy is now “desperately scrambling to find studio space” and called on the French Federation of Fashion and Fashion to help, hoping the fashion community can work together to overcome this devastating setback.
Authorities said experts equipped with search dogs should stop sifting through the rubble on Rue Saint-Jacques until the site can be deemed safe.
Hermès: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it
This spring-summer, under the direction of veteran designer Veronique Nishanian, the Hermès men’s show reveals an air of understated luxury and subtle opulence.
The collection offered an attractive array of pastel colours. With a soft palette of steampunk, taupe, sage and other loose shades, it gives off an airy and relaxed vibe. Tote bags and sandals with perforated embellishments contributed to the unease.
Soft geometry abounds, seen in stripes that dance across shirts and coats, drawing a bold connection to Hermès’ signature openwork pattern.
Amid the gender themes that dominate many Parisian couture runways, Nichanian has fostered the realm of classic menswear, instead preserving the timeless elegance that Hermès has been synonymous with since its inception in 1988.
Summer was anticipated with beachy tunics and blazers, while the collection’s look was unmistakably sexy, with thick silks for summer nights and loose knits for the cooler hours.
Nichanian—the longest-serving Parisian fashion designer and non-founder since Karl Lagerfeld passed away from Chanel—continues to deliver the effortless elegance of Hermès men’s dress, while solidifying the brand’s reputation for simple, salable fashion.
Summer, under Nishanian’s guidance, Hermes promises to be easygoing, cheerful, and devoid of tact.
General Office: Pierre Maheu menswear exudes a touch of effortless charm
Officine Generale’s Spring-Summer 2024 menswear show was a sober study, as designer Pierre Maheo presented a new collection and kept his brand evolving.
Starting with a monochromatic color palette, the show has evolved into a celebration of subtle historical elements. A knee clasp here and a sash there showcase Miho’s passion for ancient elements reinterpreted in a modern context.
Teamed with a tailored sash, the tapered baggy white pants and comfy pajama-like top were both casual and chic. Elastic straps, hosiery, and knee-highs create an image of style and comfort.
Miho balanced the line between cancel and implement, always sticking to simplicity. The hues of ultraviolet, light blue, tank tops, and shorts were an amazing touch. The designer admitted to using them as a response to the “cold and rainy” Parisian winter, which brings a touch of warmth and sunshine.
The show showcased minimalism – Miho proved that simplicity can have an impact and that less is more when done with flair and attention to detail.
is reading Collège Boreal and Les Concerts La Nuit sur l’étang renew their partnership
Four people remain hospitalized in critical condition after Wednesday’s blast, and 54 others suffered at least minor injuries or psychological trauma. One person, a teacher, is still missing.
At the scene, Anna Parr, a 42-year-old commerce instructor at the academy, fought back tears Saturday.
“It’s especially upsetting because it’s a small school, a family. I’ve known the director for 25 years. I even studied there,” she told the Associated Press. “Students have traveled from all over the world, including from the United States and Korea, to attend these fashion design courses.”
Parr said the academy was now “desperate to find a workshop space” and called on the French Fashion and Fashion Federation to help, hoping the fashion community can come together to overcome this devastating setback.
Authorities said experts equipped with search dogs had to pause sifting through the rubble on Rue Saint-Jacques until the site could be deemed safe.
Hermes: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it
This spring-summer, under the direction of veteran designer Veronique Nishanian, the Hermès menswear show is unveiled with an air of irreverence and subtle yet sophisticated luxury.
The collection offered an attractive array of pastel colours. With a soft palette of vapor, taupe, sage and other loose shades, it reflected an airy and relaxed mood. Oversized bags and sandals embellished with perforations contributed to the elusive feel.
Gentle geometry, seen in stripes that dance across shirts and coats, abounds, drawing a bold tie-in to Hermes’ iconic openwork motif.
Amid the gender-bending themes that dominate many of the couture shows in Paris, Nichanian has bolstered the realm of classic menswear, instead maintaining the timeless elegance that Hermès has been true to since it began operations in 1988.
Summer was expected with beachy tunics and blazers, while the allure of the collection was unmistakably sensual, with thick silks for summer nights and loose knits for the cooler hours.
Nichanian—the longest-serving Parisian fashion designer and non-founder since Karl Lagerfeld passed away from Chanel—continues to deliver the Hermès man with effortless designer elegance, while cementing the brand’s reputation for simple, sellable fashion.
Summer, under Nishanian’s direction, promises Hermes to be calm, cheerful, and tactless.
General Office: Pierre Maheux menswear has a dash of effortless charm
Officine Generale’s spring-summer 2024 menswear show was a study in restrained simplicity, as designer Pierre Maheo delivered a collection that was fresh and retained his signature sophistication.
Starting with a monochromatic color palette, the show has evolved into a celebration of subtle historical elements. A knee clasp here and a neck scarf there showcase Miho’s passion for vintage elements reinterpreted in a modern context.
Loose, tapered white pants and a comfy pajama-like shirt, paired with detailed scarves, were both casual and elegant. Elastic waistbands, stockings and knee-highs create an image of chic and comfort.
Miho has balanced the line between undoing and implementation, always sticking to simplicity. The ultraviolet and light blue hues, tank tops and shorts were a surprising touch. The designer admitted to using them as a response to the “cold and rainy” Parisian winter, which provides a touch of warmth and sunshine.
The show showed a minimalist mood – Miho proved that simplicity can be impactful and that less is more when done with form and an eye for detail.
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